Chez Fonfon, Birmingham, AL

We made our usual stop at Chez Fonfon on the way to the Southern Foodways symposium in Oxford, and we're happy to report that Frank Stitt has apparently found a way to fit about a half stick of butter into a one-inch square piece of bread that they serve with the escargots...add an order of the best french fries in Alabama, and you'd be hard-pressed to find a better lunch anywhere.